Cycling 101: Fine-tune your fit
Posted on: Friday, January 4th, 2008 at 4:17 pm by: Terra L. Fletcher
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At the beginning of last spring I decided I was well overdue for a cycle upgrade. I rode hundreds of miles the last year and knew this new bike would be more than just a new toy. Having the right fit made all the difference. I rode more comfortably, more efficiently and, best of all, kept up with Wendy, my riding companion. You will always find conflicting advice when it comes to the fit of your cycle, but experience will help you determine what is right for you. Here are a few guidelines to get you started on the process of fine tuning your fit.
The bike should be as small as possible vertically, with enough length horizontally to allow a neutral, relaxed upper body. If your cycle is too heavy or not “stiff” enough, it is likely too large. If it is uncomfortable or just doesn’t handle well, it is probably too small. Don’t allow a dealer to determine your frame size based on your height alone.
How do you find the right size? The C-T size refers to the center-to-top length of the frame’s seat tube. Have a friend measure your inseam in centimeters. Stand barefoot with feet 15cm apart and measure from where the saddle would sit to the floor. Multiply this number by .67 to calculate your frame size. If you are very tall, you will probably want something larger than this. If you are selecting a mountain bike, choose one that is 10-12cm smaller than your road cycle.
Correct saddle height allows full leg extension, with a slight knee bend at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Start with .883 times your inseam length (measured from the center of the bottom bracket to the low point of your seat top). Try to find a cycle that matches this saddle height as closely as possible.
Top tube and stem length is more of a trial-and-error process. You should be able to breathe and reach comfortably without neck or back strain. The proper length will help you feel balanced and in control.
Most riders start with a handlebar equal to the width of their shoulders. A wider handlebar means an open chest for better breathing and leverage. A shorter handlebar on your cycle, however, will be more aerodynamic.
Bicycling magazine offers some great recommendations for troubleshooting specific cycle fit issues. If your knees are sore in the front, try raising your saddle for better extension. If the pain is behind your knee, the saddle is too high. If it’s your hands that are bothering you, try raising your handlebar and don’t use a hand grip that’s too tight.
A professional fitting could take as long as two hours and cost you $65-$100. This will be a wise investment if you consider that just three hours of cycling at a moderate pace may mean that you bend and straighten your legs, hips, and knees 16,000 times! Do you want to do that on a cycle that wasn’t adjusted for your size, strength, and flexibility?
Go for a test ride. Using a stationary trainer, have a friend watch your positioning. While the fine tuning is up to you, remember to make all adjustments gradually to give your body time to get used to the change. Also, as your strength and flexibility improves, be sure to run through this fit guide again.
Follow up and references
Bikefitkit.com
